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Eating Out with Dusty Miller: Serenade senses at la Serenata PDF Print E-mail

Getting to the sundry eateries I check on your behalf can be a bit problematic.
The transport office buzzed Tuesday asking “Did you want a lift to Ridgeway, Mister Dust?”
I sure did; a disembodied voice said a car was leaving in a few minutes if that suited.


Candidly it was earlier than I’d normally leave for lunch, but I grabbed camera-bag and notebook, racing down six flights of stairs to bag a seat.
Outside the Monomotapa, I asked the pouting fragrant hackette beside me did she want Ridgeway North or South?


“Aaaah, I don’t really know: it’s near the Goan Club!” I was told,


“Really?” I tutted, fighting sarcasm: “That’s completely the other way. In the Asian Quarter at Ridgeview: not Ridgeway, which runs between Borrowdale and Greendale. What’s the story, anyway?”


“A dog’s had 36 puppies,” she said, consulting her notes.
“Cobblers!” I retorted, perhaps ungallantly.


“No dog’s given birth to any puppies ever! A bitch may well have pupped, but I’ve been a dog man all my life and dropping 36 in a litter is impossible. Well if she has, we’ll all be on Sky News tonight; there should be a nice tip-off fee in it. Let’s go!”


We traced the source to the Goan gym. Then next door to Sunrise Sports Club, where we found a sad looking, flea-ridden, undernourished bitch, with much Rhodesian Ridgeback in her and an ordinary litter of six surviving — of seven — whining pups.
Yet another false alarm with — probably — good intent… as firemen used to say!


So, back to Enterprise Road/Ridgeway South and — finally — to eat at La Serenata (ex-Seasons.)
It was opened by bubbly Lauren Pyle about four months ago. She ticked me off for not going earlier and arriving unannounced. She didn’t click when I muttered I’d nearly had curry and rice, miles away at Tandoor, above Sunrise!


The complex is stunning: eating indoors or out in sculptured landscaped gardens with tinkling waterfall and fish pond as the centerpiece. Inside is mainly minimalist bare brick but hung with interesting art for sale. Linen is crisp, silverware solid, elegant, sharp; crockery and crystal sparkles.


Locally born Shane Ellis is executive chef, having left Meikles Hotel, the menu is typical of him: unpretentious but exciting food cooked with flair and flavour, attractively presented using carefully sourced ingredients.


Lauren, who’s four months pregnant — and radiant — shrugged when she said Shane’s not big into vegetarian dishes and must be steered in that direction! He wasn’t present: attending a restaurateurs’ event at Bushman Rock Vineyard, Bromley.


La Serenata opens breakfast, lunch and supper, daily. Additionally, it has a coffee shop with light meal menu, does much special events and conference hosting in a purpose built centre and the grounds, also outside catering.


But due to space, or a lack of it, I’ll focus on a la carte options.


Starters included grape, feta and pecan nut salad with citrus dressing at US$7 (sure to be a winner with ladies who lunch languidly). Stuffed queen prawns with garlic duxelle mushrooms were US$10 and spiced lamb koftas (meat balls) with minted Greek yoghurt US$9. Vegetarian lasagna with ricotta cheese and herbed cherry tomato sauce was US$8.


I chose gypsy spits: good sized button mushrooms, wrapped in bacon, literally smothered in garlic and parsley butter which, at US$9, came with lovely home-baked light rolls and butter.


Main courses all looked between very substantial and frankly huge in size, which accurately reflects both Lauren and Shane’s philosophy of catering. I thought prices middle-of-the road, bearing in mind what’s happening in many other eateries and considering the opulent surroundings.
Steaks: fillet or sirloin with potato gratin, chips or leek-mashed spuds, veg and a choice of four mouthwatering sauces were US$19.


Pan-fried Peking duck breast flambéed in Grand Marnier and served with parmentier potatoes was US$22, as were prawn-and-pineapple kebabs in honey, chili and sesame seed basting with home-made noodles and soya dipping sauce and  supreme (presumably “of”?) Loch Duarte salmon on a bed of crushed peas with saffron butter.


Prosciutto-wrapped chicken breast, stuffed with dried cranberries and Camembert, with leek-mashed potatoes was US$18; lightly spiced tilapia (bream) with parsley and Parmesan risotto US$16.


Vegetarian dishes are US$14/ US$15.


At US$20, there’s the roast rack of pork ribs served with a red wine-poached pear; or my choice: five (or was it six?) totally delicious large Lake Kariba freshwater crayfish (Australian yabbies) cooked in lemon, garlic and paprika butter on a bed of basmati rice with fresh peas, roast veg and lemon wedges.


(I got stuck into this attractive dish like a bulldog with a bowl of sadza…the fragrant citrusy finger bowl and extra napkins were much in demand!)
Puddings sounded amazing: peach, amaretto and almond-baked cheesecake; chocolate truffle with blueberry coulis; fresh fruit salad topped with a cleansing lemon and mint foam; spectacularly: pan-seared water melon with Greek yoghurt and caramelised pecans.


I was, by now, pushed, having earlier toured less salubrious bits of Ha-ha-ha-rare (Africa’s fun capital) on a wild goose chase  (but spotting an undertaker’s vehicle quite farcically sign-written “Cold Chunks Funeral Service”. ..Where do they dream these things up?...it made my day.)
So, still having a third delightfully chilled Golden Pilsener to finish, I ordered cheese platter, comprising wafers, fig confit, grapes and beautifully kept, Brie, Camembert, Gorgonzola and local hard cheeses at US$9.


The restaurant opens 7:30 am until suppertime, daily. (Today’s the debut for three services on a Sunday.) Give yourselves time to see the art gallery upstairs.


La Serenata, 146 Enterprise Road, Highlands. Tel 497876/ 0772 336 223.
Dusty’s rating 5-stars plus.
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