APOLOGIES to someone who SMS'd me recently asking where to have an affordable Monday fish supper. Fighting touch of malaria; not a penny on pay-as-you-use mobiles; loyal gun-beare
r (as ever) late from time-off. Could have been vrot Sunday to Tuesday; no one would have known!
Same week, my friend Mary and I felt peckish mid-afternoon. Both had worked through the conventional lunch hour after early breakfasts; both had to hang around CBD; neither in mood to cook. She's moving from Gun Hill after three years' tenure; I'm preparing to leave Greendale posse of 25 years' a depressing business; hard work.
Fishmonger sprang to mind: it's open all afternoon. Almost three years since my last visit; Mary's not returned since her parents died within a week of each other 18 months ago. A favourite venue with her folks, they loved the grilled sole: now $105 000 medium, $120 000 large.
Piratically-bearded Jeanne-Pierre Pendelliau and business partner pony-tailed Butch Culverwell were in the restaurant garden when we arrived unannounced in Mary's newish 4WD, leaving my wheels at "the club". We asked J-P to choose lunch.
"Small" Greek salad ($25 000) surrounded daily special deep-fried prawns ($45 000): a substantial starter for two. I'd have been tempted by another special: fish and vegetable soup $25 000? (chalkboard items unpriced.) Greek appetisers: tarama, homous or tzatziki and pitta bread: $30 000; mussels in creamy wine or Portuguese sauce $45 000, same as LM prawn cocktail. Fried or grilled calamari or squid heads $40 000; lobster bisque (when available) $25 000.
From the kiddies' menu (can you credit it?) we'd "small" succulent hake and faultless chips which proved huge portions, beautifully cooked on hot oval platter with a little more salad: $45 000. Large ditto (Desperate Dan-sized) $85 000 as were calamari as a main course. A favourite of mine's calamari steak in Portuguese creamy sauce at $90 000, same as catch of the day and espetada (fish kebab.)
I'd a brace of chilly Pillys, Mary two Famous Grouse Presbyterian altar wines, ice and water: $13 000/$17 000 respectively. To check the spelling of Jeanne-Pierre's surname, called up Fishmonger files. In 1998 (when I hated it) they served in dishes resembling dog bowls. The franchise down south insists food's presented in robust cast iron frying pans; here they used cheap (potentially dangerous) enamel. It didn't work, but a set two-course lunch and a glass of wine were $185.
In March 2002 - much improved - hake and chips (from main menu), spectacular pudding, two ales $1 625. Partners insisted I join them for post-prandial Irish coffee which would have cost $200.
On recent visit, two starters, two entrees, four incidental drinks: $220 000. Partners (it's now a non-franchised operation) again insisted joined us for excellent Irish coffee which would have been $5 000 each.
To many readers, dining out in land-locked Zim means prawns. Fishmonger's are superbly fresh Mozambican. Queens $25 000 each, king, $30 000, tiger medium $35 000, tiger giant $40 000 (per 100g.) Prawn or crab curry is $110 00. Meat/poultry dishes available: a short-list of Portuguese specialities $60-$75 000. Puddings, locked in waiters' head, include frozen yoghourt, creme caramel, chocolate mousse, ice-cream and chocolate sauce and pudding Maria, a J-P creation I thought magnificent in 2002, all currently $17 000.
Fishmonger's yet another converted former Colonial-style dwelling home. There's a comfortable welcoming well-stocked bar with much interesting memorabilia and trivia. Eating's indoors, fully alfresco or on a sun-dappled stoep which can be quickly weatherproofed when the monsoon hits (it usually does when I go!)
In 2002 (eating for $1 625!) we classed the place an up-market De-Luxe restaurant, since rated Four Rosettes. We were assured prices haven't risen since August (big tick for that.) Now - with the partners' enthusiastic concurrence - we move it back to family restaurant section, awarding Four Stars Plus late January 2005.
Fishmonger, 50 East Rd, Avondale. Tel 302285/308164. Open noon to late Mon to Sat. Kitchen closes Sun 2:30/bar 4.00PM. Booking advised at peak times. (Like St Valentine's Day)
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