Probably because an e-mail told me that the Harare chapter of Royal Society of St George’s major coming event would be a St George’s dinner at the rather larney fine-dining establishment Emmanuel’s, at the Bronte Hotel, in The Avenues, I decided to sample the restaurant that night.
Eating Out with Dusty Miller
And dining — whether lunch or supper — at Emmanuel’s really is fine… ever an eye-opener for first-time visitors to Central Africa, with its hectares of glazing overlooking spectacular gardens, acres of gleaming, starched table linen, sparkling crystal, fine china, solid silver cutlery, exemplary service and always an excitingly different menu to put you in mind of Henley-on-Thames, Hampstead or Harrogate, rather than Ha-ha-ha-rare (Africa’s fun Capital!)
I hadn’t booked, but it looked rather like I may have to do so next time as the place was almost full with large family groups, a very nicely dressed “hen party” for want of a better phrase, intense tables indulging in NGO-type development and investment speak and several parties of “suits” working out deals.
While still perusing a tempting sounding menu, an attractive amuse bouche of a cheese soufflé was delivered. Designed to amuse, or entertain, the mouth, or palate, my laughing tackle was in stitches over this light as a kiss piece of nonsense, which, perhaps, constituted two small bites.
It’s a sample of what the chef can produce, but as the executive chef at The Bronte Hotel is no less a person than that maestro of the ranges, Steve Hyde, it offered just a wee hint of things to come.
The award-winning Kadoma born Steve has returned to his roots, but along the way he spent much of his career at the Westminster College as head of hospitality, catering and tourism. He taught Jamie Oliver and Gordon Ramsay (among many other first-team players, now household names) their trade.
Freshwater crayfish A starter course proper leaped out of the page to say “order me”. It was a wonderfully successful salad of Kariba freshwater crayfish (cooked with sensitive precision to retain firmness, freshness and flavour), which came in a magnificent presentation with Parma ham, avocado and mango crisps served with bitter leaves and a honey-and-lime vinaigrette at US$11.
The crustaceans ( Australian yabbies: they escaped or were released from fish farming “programmes” in Zambia and are now busy rapidly destroying the ecology of Lake Kariba on a Doomsday scenario) are totally delicious.
I used to enjoy them as a main course, usually crayfish thermidore) at the now sadly closed La Serenata Restaurant at Highlands. They also come in a rough-and-ready eat-as-much- as- you-can/want braai at Eagle’s Rest Resort on the Zambian side at Siavonga.
Other starters include a sun-dried tomato risotto (US$9), chili broth at US$10, kudu carpaccio (Emmanuel’s specialises in game) costs US$11, oxtail ravioli with wild mushroom and Madeira sauce is US$9 and chicken liver parfait is US$7.
You can forget all about your run-of-the-mill steak, egg and chips and piri-piri huku Zimbabwe restaurants when walking into Emmanuel’s with its faultless service, elegant atmosphere and ambience, opulent décor and polite hum of subdued conversation. Then turn to the main course menu for further proof of its exclusiveness.
It’s a pity I went very much at the 11th hour and didn’t invite a guest as I would have loved to have shared or at least sampled more than one main course. Herb-coated smoked haddock on a bed of fresh mussels laced with Bailey’s Irish Cream was one such temptation at US$24.
Seafood nage
Or poached fillets of bream stuffed with salmon mousseline lightly cooked with a seafood nage (broth) baby vegetables and herb oil costing US$21 or a dish featuring salmon-trout (the best of both worlds) at the same price.
There’s roast buffalo hind quarter at US$22 and, yes, they do sling steaks: but tournedos Rossini topped with liver parfait at US$24 or grilled rib-eye at US$22. The beef will have been hung at least 28 days for added tenderness and enhanced flavours.
I used to poach the Earl of Harewood’s rabbits in my misspent youth. He was the Queen’s cousin and my next-door-neighbour.
(Well he had 175 00 acres of Yorkshire and my family owned about half-an-acre!) I’ve eaten rabbit in every possible presentation, except Steve’s saddle of boned bunny, with a tarragon mousseline and prunes, wrapped in bacon and baked and served with wild mushrooms, macaroni cheese, lots of lovely colourful vegetables, including red cabbage and baby corn and liquorice jus. It was a masterpiece at…hmm…US$24.
One of the intense TWOG-type (third-world groupie) do-gooder aid donors at the next table apologized for a little, almost lady-like, burb which escaped and told her companion: “Now that’s what I call fine dining!” as she finished her pudding…a chocolate delice, strawberry mille feuille and orange compote (US$8).
I settle for an Amarula parfait on just a mere disc of brandy snap tuile and with a zingy citrusy lemon syllabub at a dollar cheaper having sadly decided I just didn’t have room for the cheese platter with celery, chutney and biscuits at US$12.
I should budget US$50 a head to eat and drink at Emmanuel’s. Certainly my amuse bouche, crayfish starter, rabbit main course, wonderful pudding and two Golden Pilsener Lagers came to US$46…US$50 with a well-earned tip. (Which explains why I only review the pace every couple of years!)
Emmanuel’s at The Bronte Hotel at Third and Baines (separate entrance/guarded parking off Josiah Chinamano Avenue). No smoking indoors (and it was too cold to eat outside).
Nothing to stop you taking kids there, but I wouldn’t (try The Palms buffet restaurant next door.) Reasonably handicapped friendly, but the gents is up a steep flight of stairs. Fully licensed, corkage is US$5. If they play background music it must have been at a very discreet level. Opens lunch and dinner Monday to Friday, supper only Saturday.
