Steak Out staked out!

Wining & Dining
“Interesting” is a neutral word for a restaurant and I found then newly-opened (yep, another one!) Steak Out, at Avondale, very interesting at lunch soon after it opened in January.

If you remember the disgusting, filthy tip which was the late, unloved and unlamented Wimpy Bar, which occupied this prime site for years, the new operators have done wonders.

It’s very clean: almost clinically so, but, seemingly, acres of gleaming Portuguese ceramic and quarry tiles, sparkling glass, shimmering stainless steel don’t do much for harsh, echoing acoustics.

Other than padded chairs, there seems absolutely nothing to soften or even slightly mute the cacophony as  punters, talk, scream or yell at each other, crockery clashes, cutlery’s dropped, waiters shout at short-order cooks; coffee machines hiss.

Over all, is a music system which plays “something” but I’ve never been able to identify a single tune, singer, musical period or genre… just background noise!

Hospitality consultant Atilio Vigoriti joined me after lunch back then; we decided Steak Out reminded us of a fairly presentable, pretty up market, busy airport restaurant: not the sort of place to celebrate a 30th wedding anniversary, son’s PhD or promotion to the board, but ok for a middle of the road pork-less, wine- or any booze-less Halaal meal.

Half-a-year later in Avondale between appointments and peckish, rather than hungry, I revisited Steak Out.

I’m not sure what the fault is, but it just doesn’t seem to be ticking many of the right boxes. Certainly on neither visit, nor on another half a dozen times I’ve walked past, was it anything like full.

One problem may be the same lack of consistency which plagues many if not most Zimbabwean eateries?

In January I ate acceptably nice Thai-style fish cakes (perhaps a bit low on the fish, high on mashed spud), with a sweet chili dipping sauce. In June they were the consistency of gloop: something like a thin, sloppy sadza filling and totally lacking in flavour or crunch.

In June, because I wasn’t starving and several of the items which interested me were “off”, I settled for my daughter’s favourite culinary trick: ordering two starters.

That proved a (pardon the pun) non-starter, possibly because glazed haloumi cheese with sweet chili sauce, looked rather like their current dismal take on Thai fishcakes with ditto.

There all resemblance ended, because cheese was the consistency of those rubbery opaque ear-plugs favoured by scuba divers, snorkelers and people who often have to over-night in noisy hotels and the insides of the sloppy fish cakes could have passed through a tea-strainer.

Steaks looked excellent and I only wish I’d had the appetite to try one and hopefully report favourably on it. There’s a chilled butcher’s display cabinet which in January held unattractive displays of vacuum packed “economy” cuts of nyama.

“Boy’s meat” a very un-PC companion dismissed it as. By June the steaks on display did, at least look like something you’d want to eat.And plated, they looked better with a mountain of chips or rice, “crispy” onion rings and an attractive salad garnish. Prices are reasonable: fillet, rump, sirloin or T-bone, marinated in special sauce, flame-grilled and basted and served with  a free sauce, starch and salad at US$14 for a ladies’ (or Dusty’s!) 200g portion or US$19 for the  large 350g slab.

Partner Mohamed Lunat whom, in real life, is financial director and shareholder in Dulux, was there in January and was clearly (judging by the body language) distressed by the way things were going. His partners are all third generation Zimbabwean Muslims, hence the strict Halaal policy.

I would say about half the clientele were fairly obviously Muslims on my first visit and around two-thirds on my second trip.

Only “proper” pudding available on this latest visit was cheesecake, something of which I’m not potty about in its culinary form, but I had two scoops of nice ice-cream: vanilla and strawberry, with butterscotch syrup drizzled over. I also enjoyed two excellent strongish cappuccinos. The first one had the word Hey! written in chocolate across the froth, the second said Steak Out.

I gather there’s been a succession of managers, chefs and cooks since they opened: which doesn’t help that evasive consistency which diners-out seek.

Paula Mattock was in charge (but not present) on my first visit. She’s now helping her dad, Costa Pafitis compile his memoirs.

(And as the former Sandhurst sword-of-honour officer cadet and Nuffield rugby player was the UDI-era Ministry of Information’s under-cover guy in Europe, going on to be Press secretary to Ian Smith and Prime Minister Robert Mugabe — accompanying him on a visit to the Pope, etc — latterly right-hand man to controversial arms-dealer John Bredenkamp, these should be worth reading!)

Current manager is the very amiable Tiago Carvalho, who has returned from working in hospitality in Europe.

Despite running this Avondale halaal joint, the only stock picture I have in my archives is of him carving a monster spit-roast pig at a Portuguese community braai in Belvedere about a year ago!

Dusty’s Steak Out rating Three Stars (maximum for unlicensed restaurants is Four).Steak Out, Avondale SC. Tel (0714-885-505). Open 9am-10pm, Tuesdays-Sundays.